Extralucca, diario una grande esperienza…leggi l’articolo della Gazza Golosa

Olio, da Nord a Sud è una grande annata

Un premio ExtraLucca lo vince in partenza tutti gli anni: è la manifestazione enogastronomica con la sede più bella. L’anno scorso era nell’affascinante VIlla Bottini, appena fuori le mura di Lucca. Quest’anno l’organizzatore Fausto Borella ha fatto ancora meglio con il Palazzo Ducale, che fu per 8 anni di Elisa Baciocchi, duchessa di Lucca e sorella di Napoleone Bonaparte. Così tra stucchi, affreschi e mobili d’epoca si è riunito il meglio dell’olio italiano, 52 espositori (“Quattro anni fa ero partito con 26 aziende”, dice Borella) che hanno dato un quadro confortante della stagione. Se l’anno scorso era stata una catastrofe in quasi tutta Italia, quest’anno da nord a sud il bilancio è positivo in qualità e quantità. Il risultato di pubblico è stato buono grazie anche all’apertura di uno spazio food con 15 aziende di qualità e grazie a qualche nome di richiamo a cominciare da Giorgione, il mitico cuoco del Gambero Rosso che ha riempito all’inverosimile il salone delle feste. Ma l’olio sta facendo finalmente il salto di qualità? “Mah – scuote la testa Borella – ci ha messo meno la birra artigianale a far accettare una bottiglia da 15 euro che ti dura un quarto d’ora che l’olio una bottiglia da 15 euro che ti dura due settimane… Ci sono progressi, ma ancora lenti”. Intanto abbiamo selezionato 10 cose interessanti scoperte ieri a ExtraLucca.

1. La mappa degli oli
Borella prepara tutti gli anni una bella guida – si chiama Terred’olio – che è la mappa aggiornata delle produzioni italiane di qualità. Gli oli in guida vengono tutti assaggiati. I produttori sono tanti – quest’anno 137 – ma in realtà assieme non arrivano nemmeno all’1 per cento della produzione italiana! Chi ha la passione per l’olio può comprare la guida da Eataly oppure ordinarla online su Amazon. I migliori vengono premiati con la Corona: quest’anno ne sono state distribuite 31. Per chi vuole un bigino con il meglio del meglio, ecco una rapida guida per non sbagliare. Da nord a sud non perdetevi il Frantoio Riva del Garda con 46° Parallelo (monocultivar di Casaliva), San Cassiano in Veneto con il Grignano Denocciolato, in Toscana c’è ilCavallino con il Leccio del Corno, l’Itrana di I&P nel Lazio, in Campania Matarazzocon la Dop Cilento (Frantoio e Ogliarola), nell’Abruzzo la Dop di Gentile di Chieti del Trappeto di Caprafico, in Puglia la Coratina dei Fratelli Ferrara, in Sicilia laTonda Iblea di Viragì.

2. Il panettone all’olio
Opera Waiting è una pasticceria di Poggibonsi (Siena) dove Elisa Polvani e Gabriele Ciacci, marito e moglie, sperimentano con i lievitati creativi. Se c’è una firma di Opera Waiting sta nell’uso di liquori – dal vin santo al whisky – per caratterizzare il prodotto, che diventa morbido e profumato. Ci è piaciuto il panettone all’olio di oliva (non si può chiamare così ma è per farsi capire) con limone e olive candite e vermuth artigianale.

3. L’evoluzione del caffè
Lady Cafè è tra le migliori torrefazioni artigianali italiane.  A ExtraLucca il titolare Massimo Bonini ha fatto assaggiare infusioni che cambiano la normale percezione del caffè all’americana. Basta con lo spaventoso beverone insapore, ecco una tazzina di caffè senza schiuma soave e delicato. Due minuti o sei minuti di infusione – a secondo del metodo – un filtro studiato in Giappone dove mettere il caffè appena macinato. In bocca resta un retrogusto vegetale lunghissimo. La cosa che colpisce è che è talmente piacevole che si può fare a meno dello zucchero senza sacrifici. E siccome di zucchero ne mangiamo fin troppo speriamo che le infusioni di caffè prendano piede nei bar.

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